This travel diary was first published in March 2021. Train times, rental prices, accommodation and experiences describe that trip; check current details before planning your own journey.
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From Chennai to Goa, with a coastal road trip
We planned a January trip from Chennai to Goa, combining a train journey with a drive along the west coast. We booked the Mangalore Express through IRCTC. On our journey, it left Chennai at 5 pm and reached Mangalore at about 9 am the next morning. Before boarding, we stopped at Adyar Ananda Bhavan in Chennai Central for a strong coffee—the perfect beginning.
Leaving Chennai by train
Our sleeper coach had only a few passengers, and we settled in comfortably. Whatever our age, there is something special about finding a window seat and watching fields and trees pass by. The journey itself already felt like part of the holiday.
Biryani at the Salem stop
The train reached Salem around 9.45 pm. About an hour earlier, we had ordered chicken biryani from Salem RR Biryani, whose delivery team brought it to our coach. We had not expected such a satisfying meal on the train: mildly spicy, long-grained rice and tender chicken made the stop memorable.
Arrival in Mangalore
After a good night’s sleep, we arrived in Mangalore at around 9 am. We found the station well maintained and used its facilities to freshen up. Breakfast was at Hotel Taj Mahal, roughly 500 metres from the station. The old-style hotel served dosas that tasted different from those we knew in Tamil Nadu, along with biscuit roti and sheera, or kesari. It was an enjoyable, affordable breakfast on that visit.
Starting the drive along NH66
From Mangalore, we followed National Highway 66 towards Goa. Instead of using a large rental company, we arranged a Baleno car through a local contact for four days at ₹1,300 per day. That was the price for our trip, not a current quote. The coastal route rewarded us with views of rivers meeting the sea.
Malpe Beach and lunch in Udupi
Our first stop was Malpe Beach near Udupi, where blue skies and pale sand drew us towards the water. The beach offered activities such as jet skiing, parasailing, banana-boat rides, speedboats, bumpy rides and kayaking. We enjoyed a refreshing dip before continuing to lunch.
At Hotel Thimmapa, the fish meal and seafood served on banana leaves were the highlight. The restaurant was known to us for its long history and popular fish meals, but it was the food on our plates that made the visit worthwhile.
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| MALPE BEACH, UDUPI, KARNATAKA |
Murdeshwar: a temple beside the sea
After lunch, we drove towards Murdeshwar Temple, about 105 km from Udupi on our route. The drive took us roughly an hour and a half, with relatively little traffic at the time. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and its coastal setting gives it a striking character. The large Shiva statue and tall gopuram stood out, but my favourite part was the elevated view across the Arabian Sea. It felt almost like looking down from a drone.
Gokarna, dinner and a search for a room
After the evening at Murdeshwar, we continued to Gokarna, where hills and beaches meet. We arrived at about 8 pm and went to Mantra Cafe. The atmosphere was relaxed: the sound of the sea, groups of travellers and friends sharing old stories. For us, the setting was more memorable than the food.
Finding a room proved difficult over the long weekend. We had hoped to stay in Gokarna, perhaps at a hostel such as Zostel, a tent stay or a resort, but our search did not produce an available room. Eventually, we decided to continue towards South Goa, around 130 km away by our estimate.
By about 1 am, fatigue persuaded us to stop at Ankola instead. Looking back, arranging accommodation in advance would have saved us that late-night uncertainty.
An unexpected stop in Ankola
We entered Ankola along quiet roads, still looking for somewhere to sleep. Fortunately, we found a room at Sahana Center and could finally rest.
The next morning, we visited nearby Nadibhag Beach. Hills and large rocks framed the shore, making it an unexpected highlight. Had we driven straight to Goa, we would have missed it. The detour reminded us that a journey’s best moments are not always the planned ones.
Breakfast brought another pleasant surprise at Hotel Kamat Plus. We enjoyed the vegetarian food and finished with coffee. Stopping at Ankola had begun as a response to exhaustion, but it became a memorable part of the trip.
The onward drive to our destination in Goa was around 80 km. We passed Karwar and the Kali bridges along NH66, enjoying another stretch of the coast. A sign for Agonda Beach prompted a left turn and brought us towards South Goa.
A quiet evening at Agonda Beach
Agonda felt welcoming and unhurried on our visit. Colourful shacks, coconut trees and hills framed a clean stretch of beach. As evening settled, the shore became quieter. Sitting there on a cool night, we watched the moon and stars over the water. The scene slowed our thoughts in a way that is difficult to capture in a photograph or describe fully in words. It was one of the most relaxing parts of the trip.
Workation at Agonda Beach.
Baga Beach: a different side of Goa
After Agonda, we travelled about 80 km to Baga Beach in North Goa. The contrast was immediate. Beach shacks, clubs, restaurants and the familiar Tito’s nightlife area brought a lively atmosphere and larger crowds. Agonda had given us quiet; Baga gave us energy. Seeing both helped us appreciate how differently a beach holiday can feel within the same state.
Walking through Fontainhas
Fontainhas in Panjim offered another change of pace. Colourful homes, terracotta roofs, decorative details and small balconies made the streets feel like pages from a storybook. The Chapel of St. Sebastian added a sense of history, while galleries and nearby eateries brought art and everyday life into the picture. I enjoyed photographing the neighbourhood and noticing its Portuguese-era influences alongside its present-day character.
What stayed with us
This journey was more than a direct trip to Goa. The train ride from Chennai, meals along the way, Karnataka’s coastal stops and an unplanned night in Ankola all became part of the story. Agonda, Baga and Fontainhas then offered three very different experiences of Goa. What I remember most is that mixture: landscapes, flavours, quiet moments and surprises that made the route as rewarding as the destination.