My first visit to Telangana began at Chennai Central, where I boarded the Hyderabad Express, train 12603, at 4.45 p.m. I settled into a window seat, ready to watch the world outside change.
This is my account of that 2019 trip. The fares, room prices and timings are what I recorded then and should be checked before planning a visit now.
Chennai to Secunderabad by Train
We passed Basin Bridge, Tondiarpet, Tiruvottiyur and Ennore Creek before reaching Sullurpeta at about 6.05 p.m. The area brought Sriharikota, the Satish Dhawan Space Centre and Pulicat's birdlife to mind. I had also noted a Flamingo Festival in February, although festival dates and access to the space centre require separate confirmation.
At around 8.30 p.m., I climbed onto the middle berth in S12. My notes described 23 coaches with 72 seats each, giving a rough figure of 1,656 places. That calculation was an impression of the train's scale, not a verified passenger count.
I slept in fragments and woke around 5 a.m., excited about seeing somewhere new. Instead of going straight to Hyderabad, I got down at Secunderabad, its twin city.
An Early Start in Secunderabad
At about 5.15 a.m., eateries near the station were already busy. I could not decide whether people were having a very early breakfast or a very late dinner. The streets seemed wide awake.
I booked a room at Prince Residency near the railway station through OYO for around ₹500 a day. After another short nap and a cold shower, I put on a blue denim shirt and jeans, laced my shoes and left my bags in the room.
Travelling Towards Charminar
I began with the Metro from Secunderabad East to Ameerpet. Later, I took an auto to Charminar for ₹100.
From the elevated train, I looked at old buildings that had become colleges, museums, stations and hotels. A fellow passenger spoke about the city's changing architecture and told me that some older buildings had been removed because of structural concerns.
A Local's Food Suggestions
Our conversation soon turned to biryani and Irani chai. The names he suggested filled a long list: Bawarchi, Shah Ghouse, Armaan, Shadab and Nayaab for biryani; Shahran for kebab and roti; Nimrah, Nayaab and Shadab for chai and Osmania biscuits; and Pista House, Karachi Bakery, Alfa and Paradise.
These were recommendations shared during a conversation, rather than places I personally reviewed on this visit.
Charminar and Tea at Nimrah
I expected a dense crowd at Charminar around 8.30 a.m., but the area was quieter than I had imagined. The heat soon became noticeable as I explored.
Charminar, built under Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, stands at the heart of the old city. My notes connected it with the historic trade route between Golconda and Machilipatnam. There was an entry fee to go inside.
After visiting, I stopped at Nimrah Bakery, whose sign dated its establishment to 1993. The Irani chai and Osmania biscuits were excellent. That small break became one of my favourite memories of Hyderabad.
Salar Jung Museum
I took a bus towards Salar Jung Museum, where the collection brought together art and antiques from India, other parts of Asia and Europe. The museum was established in 1951; the collection is associated with the Salar Jung family, whose members served the Nizams.
I paid ₹20 for admission and spent about two hours looking around. The objects offered glimpses of many periods, from older Indian dynasties to the Mughal and Nizam eras. It felt like time well spent.
Lunch and Shade at Sanjeevaiah Park
Feeling hungry afterwards, I went to Pista House for a chicken sandwich costing ₹60 and a black forest pastry for ₹20. An Ola taxi to Sanjeevaiah Park cost around ₹200.
The park is beside Hussain Sagar, the lake known for its Buddha statue. I missed the chance to take a boat towards the statue, something I would have liked to do in the evening.
I reached the park in the afternoon and was grateful for the trees. Their shade made the heat easier to bear and reminded me how much urban life depends on green spaces.
An Unexpected Film-Shooting Encounter
Inside the park, I noticed cinema vans, lighting equipment and a generator. A member of staff told me a Tamil film was being shot there.
As I approached, I recognised director H. Vinoth, whose Theeran Adhigaaram Ondru I knew. The production was Nerkonda Paarvai, starring Ajith Kumar. It was an unexpected addition to my day.
One Last Biryani Before Leaving
My return train to Chennai was due to leave Secunderabad at 5.15 p.m., so I left the park at 3 p.m. From the nearby Sanjeevaiah Park station, I took an EMU to Secunderabad and reached my room in time.
Before leaving, I ordered Paradise biryani through Zomato. I could not imagine ending my first Hyderabad visit without tasting the city's most famous dish.
Thank you for joining me on this journey.
Photographs From Hyderabad
